Alberta Native Plant Council

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Whitehorse Wildland Park

Cardinal Divide

The 174 sq. km Whitehorse Wildland Park is an excellent representative of the Northern Front Ranges of the Rocky Mountain Region. It is situated 105 km SW of Edson (Hwy 47) or 59 km SE of Hinton (Hwy 40), next to Jasper National Park. A wide range of alpine and subalpine plants and wildlife are found here, as well as many unusual geological features. The Wildland Park can be divided into serveral sub-areas: Cardinal Divide, Tripoli Ridge, Whitehorse Creek, Cardinal River Headwaters, and the Cadomin Cave.

The Cardinal Divide is a wide alpine ridge separating two major watersheds. To the north, the McLeod - Athabasca Rivers drain to the Arctic Ocean. To the south, the Cardinal - North Saskatchewan Rivers drain into the Hudson's Bay. There are fantastic views from the parking lot on the Divide at 2000 m (6500 ft). See section on Access and the Cheviot Coal Mine. From here, a hike to the east takes you up to the top of a broad, sweeping ridge and spectacular views. Or walk west to the base of Tripoli Ridge over dry, white mountain avens meadows, past moist snow melt channels with dazzling wildflower blooms from mid to end of July.

Tripoli Ridge forms the mountain backbone of the Wildland Park. It includes Tripoli, Prospect, and Cheviot Mountains and their upper eastern slopes above tree line. Following along the base of these slopes you are walking through some of the most extensive alpine and subalpine meadows in Alberta.

The Whitehorse Creek area includes a small campsite huddled beneath large boulders. At the west end of the campsite is a horse and hiking trail that follows along the scenic, fast-flowing Whitehorse Creek. This old traditional trail leads through the heart of the Wildland Park, and into Jasper National Park, over Fiddle Pass. The lucky hiker might see a small dark bird, an American Dipper, bobbing in the water for insects, or even a brightly coloured harlequin duck shooting the rapids.

Cardinal River Headwaters, just outside the south boundary of the Wildland Park, is an enclosed valley with alpine tundra vegetation and striking geological formations. The higher slopes of the upper Headwaters are within the Wildland Park, but the main valley is just outside the south boundary. At present, there is an off-highway vehicle access corridor up to (but not beyond) the Cardinal Falls, near the head of the valley. The 13-km seismic trail to the Falls had been so severely eroded by off-highway vehicle use that a hardened trail to the tree-line was built in 2002, which unfortunately has led to even more impact. Due to the fragility of the valley and the occurrence of many rare plants, this is an area that the Alberta Native Plant Council is actively lobbying to have added to the Whitehorse Wildland Park.

Cadomin Cave is well known in Alberta and as such gets many visitors. What may not be as well known is that this is one of the few known locations in the province for hibernating bats. Disturbance of a hibernating bat causes it to use up extra energy. Even a single disturbance may be enough to cause its death. Recognizing the sensitivity of hibernating bats, the management plan for the Wildland Park states that the cave will be closed Sept 1 to April 30 each year, and in August people must be over 100 m away from the cave between 7 PM and 7 AM. Visitors should be aware that this is a wild cave with significant hazards, including sudden drops of 30 m or more.

Plants

Over 250 plant species have been documented as occurring in the Wildland Park area. Of these, a striking number are rare, and/or have unusual distributions. Several are isolated (disjunct) populations, separated from the main range of their species. This suggests that part of this area may have been unglaciated during the last Wisconsin Ice Age, providing a 'glacial refugium', where plants and animals could survive. There may be similarly disjunct insect species; at least one disjunct butterfly species has been described here. Although the theory that the site is a glacial refugium remains controversial, the important point is that this is a highly significant area, providing habitat for an unusual diversity of rare species.

The alpine tundra is a very harsh environment, where plants have to survive freezing temperatures and strong winds year round. What appears from a distance as a barren rock field, is home to many small plants such as white mountain dryas and saxifrages. These grow very slowly and it may be many decades before they flower. If the soil is eroded, it takes a very long time before they recover, if at all. Even moving small rocks disturbs their microhabitat and therefore the practice of building small decorative or memorial cairns is strongly discouraged. At tree line, you can see the small stunted trees (known as krumholz or 'crippled wood' in German). These may be well over 100 years old, so wood for an evening's campfire may not be replaced in your children's lifetime.

Wildlife

Small groups of bighorn sheep roam the area, as well as elk, moose and mule deer. The alpine meadows and valleys are prime grizzly habitat, especially in the pre-berry season, and the Wildland Park was formed in part to protect important wildlife corridors between Jasper National Park and the Foothills. Visitors should adopt 'Bear Beware' precautionary measures as recent studies with radio-collared grizzly bears have confirmed that the WWP is favourite area for them. Wolves and cougar are also present, but rarely seen. Hoary marmots and pikas may be found among the rocks. You can often see bold golden-mantled ground squirrels and least chipmunks at the Divide parking lot (thanks for not feeding them).

Recreation and Education Opportunities

The Cardinal Divide ridge area in particular is a popular destination. There are pleasant hikes along the East or West Divide ridges that reward the hiker with magnificent views. Many groups or individuals that enjoy wildflowers and wildlife and want to learn more about alpine environment also use the area. To conserve the fragile alpine vegetation on the Cardinal Divide, hiking only is permitted from the parking lot and horses or mountain bikes are prohibited.

There are designated backcountry campsites in the Whitehorse Valley, where you should use the existing fire-pits. Random camping is permitted elsewhere, except on the Cardinal Divide or within 1 km of designated campsites and roadways. You should practice 'leave-no-trace' camping, with removal of all fire-rings etc. In the high subalpine, camping stoves should be used rather than fires, as trees grow very slowly. Use bear-poles, if provided, or make sure your food is stored safely and away from the tents, as this is a favourite bear area.

There are a number of horse trails, with staging areas at the Whitehorse Creek campground and the Cardinal Headwaters trail end on the Grave Flats road. Horse users should check with the Park manager regarding weed-free hay fodder and trail use.

In recent years, heavy use by off highway vehicles has left badly eroded tracks and progressively widening scars along the hillsides. The stewards of the Wildland Park are working to reclaim some of the damaged areas, using native seeds, which have been collected locally. Please stay on the trails and allow time to heal the scars.

Access and the Cheviot Coal Mine

The current active development of the adjacent Cheviot Coal Mine will alter accessibility at different times in the Mountain Park area. Conditions regarding access are regularly updated on the Elk Valley Coals website http://www.elkvalleycoal.ca.

Access from Whitehorse Ck campground south to the Mountain Park Staging Area is currently closed (Oct 2004), but should be open by next season. Access to Prospect Ck, for horses and hikers only, is from a small parking lot on the left hand side of the public road, through an underpass below the Haul Road. Arrangements have to made at present (Oct 2004) with Elk Valley Coals to gain access there.

As mining activities have now started towards the first Cheviot Pit, there is now no public access from the Mountain Park Staging Area to areas west of the Grave Flats Road towards the WWP. Access management is currently under review. Meantime, the Coal Branch Forest Land Use Zone (FLUZ) and Access Management Plan are still in force in areas not restricted by Mine activities.

For more information, contact the Parks and Protected Areas, Edson District at (780) 723-8552 or Yellowhead Forest Area office in Hinton at (780)865-8267. Note you can call toll free by dialing 310-0000 and enter the number.

Whitehorse Wildland Park and You

Wildland Parks are special public lands whose natural features represent one or more aspects of Alberta's biological and physical diversity. They provide opportunities for the present and future generations to appreciate, study and enjoy nature.

The Wildland Park is available for public use on foot at all times, but please remember:

• Motorized vehicles are not allowed off the main road.
• Protect the vegetation from trampling. Keep to the trails where possible.
• Be prepared! This is a wild area with harsh and changeable climate. Dress warmly, and if you are hiking, take backcountry precautions.
• Do not cut trees or camp outside permitted areas.
• Take only memories, leave only footprints. Do not remove plants, rocks or natural artifacts.

This area is so special to so many people, that many have wished to have their ashes scattered on the Divide. Because of the fragility of the alpine vegetation, building of cairns is discouraged in the Wildland Park, but it is possible to have a memorial plaque placed at the nearby Mountain Park cemetery.

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